My training formula
As a 40 year old, training is different for me now than it was 10 years ago. It takes longer to warm up and an injury will take far longer to recover from – so it needs to be avoided at all costs!
Aside from a good diet and ensuring adequate rest, a training programme for climbing (in my opinion) should include the following elements:
Provides the ability to hold the body in a position whilst climbing.
If you can’t reach statically then you’ll need to be coordinated.
Greater flexibility results in more choice for your feet and better hip positions for balance
If you’re not climbing regularly then you won’t have any ‘flow’.
Floor, Fingerboard and Rings
These exercises are about building balanced strength in my upper body and because I want to remain injury free, the work intensity is set for an 8 week period.
Bouldering on my home board
The focus is on coordinating movements that require explosive power. This is done using very poor footholds so core tension needs to be maintained.
I try and stretch as often as I can to maintain my hip flexibility. This includes both ‘static’ and ‘active’ stretching.