training

My training formula

As a 40 year old, training is different for me now than it was 10 years ago. It takes longer to warm up and an injury will take far longer to recover from – so it needs to be avoided at all costs!

Aside from a good diet and ensuring adequate rest, a training programme for climbing (in my opinion) should include the following elements:

Static strength

Provides the ability to hold the body in a position whilst climbing.

dynamic movement

If you can’t reach statically then you’ll need to be coordinated. 

flexibility

Greater flexibility results in more choice for your feet and better hip positions for balance

actual climbing

If you’re not climbing regularly then you won’t have any ‘flow’.

Static Strength

Floor, Fingerboard and Rings

These exercises are about building balanced strength in my upper body and because I want to remain injury free, the work intensity is set for an 8 week period.

Dynamic Movement

Bouldering on my home board

The focus is on coordinating movements that require explosive power. This is done using very poor footholds so core tension needs to be maintained.

Flexibility

Stretching

I try and stretch as often as I can to maintain my hip flexibility. This includes both ‘static’ and ‘active’ stretching.