I’m not a training guru – just a hard working athlete, so if you’re after specific advice on how/what to train please contact an expert. Without hesitation I would suggest contacting Neil Gresham to support developing a training plan/schedule.
Over the past 10 years my training has been devised around a primary constraint. The same constraint that most people suffer from, its called work. (Note: work is something that you have to do when your not willing to live with the consequences of not doing it. This is a choice and if you’ve read my mindset pages you’ll understand that this is my excuse for falling short of my ultimate capability. Climbing just doesn’t mean enough to me to risk losing my house, kids, marriage etc.)
The problem with work (full time work) is that it tends to be right in the middle of the day. This provides two slots in which training is possible, before 7am and after 7pm. Neither of which are particularly ideal for training from a biological perspective.
My morning training focuses on injury prevention. For the last 12 months I’ve suffered periodically from elbow tendonosis (both golfers and tennis). Prevention work involves low intensity dumbell exercises on my forearm extensor and flexors, along with activities to help stabilise my scapulas which are prone to ‘winging’. Morning sessions take 1 hour (6am-7am and are performed Mon to Thur).
Evening sessions are split between bouldering on my board (Tue/Thur) and static strength exercises (Mon/Wed) which also includes antagonist work. Evening sessions are 1.5 hours in duration (typically 19:45-21:15) and it’s pretty important to eat quickly after completing these.
Weekends are for proper climbing (that means outdoors) – so long as the weather allows!